The Nagorno-Karabakh war left more than 4,500 Armenians dead and 15,000 injured.

The peace deal of November 2020 represented a heavy defeat for Armenia. While they kept control of the areas they held within Nagorno-Karabakh, they were forced to return the surrounding territories to Azerbaijan. Still, Armenians live in fear of losing what remains of their land. In Kornidzor, the villagers take turns to stand guard, day and night. These peasants have formed a militia, swapping their pitchforks for Kalashnikovs.

Tens of thousands of families fled the war. Some are now ensconced at the Golden Palace, a 5-star hotel in an upscale ski resort. Susanna is in room 221 with her husband and children. The mini-bar no longer stocks cognac or vodka mignonette; the family use it to store some lard and a few vegetables. Susanna has learned to sew, and now she ekes out a living, making down jackets for the wealthy skiers who come to the resort.

Tigran, 19, miraculously survived a drone attack. After six months in hospital, he is finally being reunited with his family. He is welcomed home by a traditional festival in his village. Meanwhile Iveta, an Armenian pop start and ex-Eurovision finalist, is preparing a big show at the opera, and has dedicated a new song to the conflict.

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