Forging a KATANA out of Rusted Iron Hook
The traditional katana (刀, か た な, Blade) is a traditional Japanese nihontō (日本 刀, に ほ ん と う, Japanese Blade), long curved, one-blade, very sharp and highly appreciated by Japanese martial artists. belt - usually paired with a shorter sword wakizashi (脇 差, わ き ざ し) or extremely short called tanto (短刀, た ん と う, Dagger). The double sword set called daishō (大小, だ い し ょ う, Big and Small) - symbolizes the martial arts' behavior and honor. Katana long sword used to slash in combat. A short sword to stab when approaching an opponent - or to cut open suicide (a samurai suicide technique, called seppuku).

Katana has a grip long enough for the user to use both fists to grip. Normally, if wearing armor, the samurai will wear the blade facing downwards to easily draw the blade. When wearing casual clothes, the samurai will wear the blade facing up. Today, although no longer used in warfare, the Japanese Blade is still loved by collectors - the ancient sword is very expensive; and the art of fighting with Japanese Swords is still circulating in some Japanese martial arts, such as Kendo, Kenjutsu, Battojutsu ....

In this video I did my best to make the perfect takana sword possible:

Overall sword length: 37 inches
Handle length: 9 inch
Blade length: 27 inches

All of the Procedures below to create KATANA sword:
1 Forging:
It took me nearly five days to manually forge an iron hook into a long Metal Strip and it was a difficult process. I didn't have an electric hammer so I forged by hand and turned iron hook into a steel strip almost 36 - 37 inches long.
2 Grinding:
I started roughening the long strip on my Belt sander and turning the strip into a long katana. I also sanded the edges by hand with the help of a file to remove almost all of the roughness of the sword.
o. I created the Blood Track with the help of a rotary grinder.
o. The chamfering part I used an angle grinder to finish it. I also use the file to evenly sharpen the sword.
3 Hardness:
I used fire to red the sword and then cooled it down to allow it to achieve the hardness it needs.
The handle has three parts.
o. PROTECTION: I made a guard using a thick sheet of copper, curled into a nice piece of metal and triangular lines that could serve as a barrier between the handle and the other sword.
o. Spacer: This is a small metal pad that fits on the drum and controls the accessories of the entire handle so nothing vibrates in the handle.
o. Wood: A beautiful piece of wood used as a hilt and I have an extra layer of soft leather that creates friction for the handle.

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